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Cross-line laser levels
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A cross-line laser throws one horizontal and one vertical line crossing on the wall. It is the simplest and commonest layout: enough to put up a shelf, line up frames, fit a splashback or mark a height.
Its limit is the field covered: the line stops where the beam leaves its fan angle. For a reference that goes round the room you need a 360° model.
Three figures settle it, in this order: accuracy in millimetres at ten metres, usable range with a detector, and the number of planes thrown.
The stated accuracy is measured at ten metres and scales with distance. Range to the naked eye collapses as soon as there is daylight: outdoors, the range with a detector is the one that counts. The number of planes changes nothing about accuracy, only how often the instrument has to be moved.
Accuracy is quoted in millimetres at ten metres. For tiling, lining up furniture or indoor partitions, an instrument stated at around ±3 mm at 10 m covers the need comfortably: across a four-metre room the theoretical error stays under a millimetre and a half.
Green laser or red laser?
Green is clearly easier to see with the naked eye, because the human eye is more sensitive to it. It draws more current and costs more. Red is still enough in dimly lit rooms and over short distances. Beyond a few metres in daylight neither shows: there the detector takes over.
Is a laser level dangerous to the eyes?
Instruments meant for the general public fall into classes 1, 1M, 2 and 2M under standard EN/IEC 60825-1. In class 2 the output stays at or below 1 mW and the blink reflex is enough to protect the eye. You do not stare into the beam on purpose and you do not point it at anyone.
Do I need a tripod?
Not always: most models sit on the floor or hold on a magnetic mount. The tripod earns its place as soon as the height has to be set exactly or the floor is uneven. For work from floor to ceiling, a telescopic pole replaces the tripod.
How do I check my laser is still true?
Set the instrument about five metres from a wall, mark the line, turn it through 180° and mark again. The gap between the two marks, divided by two, is the real error at that distance. If it exceeds the stated accuracy, the instrument needs adjusting.
